September 18, 2014

my 7 favourite shows of #nyfw.

Major apologies for the 2 week hiatus I've had on the blog, I've been so impossibly busy with school that I didn't have the time to sit down and write! But thanks to Instagram and Twitter, I've been able to do some catching up on my own on the latest shows for Spring 2015. Last week was #NYFW, also known as New York Fashion Week, the first leg of each season that kick starts the fashion week cycle, and also the week where old trends are thrown out and the new are predicted for the coming weeks and seasons. And what a start it has been! The collections throughout the entire week were overflowing with creativity and originality, there were just so many of them that I coveted because all of them were just so spectacular. Another highlight of this season is also that reigning queen of the runway, Dutch clotheshorse Daphne Groeneveld has returned to the runway after a 2 season break, opening and closing a number of shows for NYFW. Here are some of the top shows that are on the way to setting the bar for Spring RTW 2015, read on to find out more....

VERA WANG : Vera Wang has always been about juxtaposition, self-confessing that she only wears black, yet she is the world's top bridalwear designer. This season, she used these contradictions to her own advantage, dividing her show into two segments, "Boyish Boudoir" and "Baby Bohemian". "There are two very distinct parts: One is tailored, the other side is very flou." Opening the show were strong structured looks : black pantsuits and blazers, jackets neatly tailored in a rich gray cinched with rims of tulle and ribbon, in the line of boudoir. Passementerie details, which Wang borrowed from bridalwear designs, were seen densely on the back and hips of the pieces. What about bohemian then? Ethereal gauzy gowns with vests was Wang's idea of "baby bohemian" nightwear. These were followed by light-as-a-feather looks including jewel encrusted tulle sewn onto brocade frocks and trapeze dresses, channelling an extremely regal feel that was both youthful and free-spirited. And who was her muse? None other than Marie Antoinette. “I think Marie-Antoinette feels a sense of freedom and motion, of structure and control. To me, she was also just a massive fashion icon.” Rather than over-the-top boudoir common with Antoinette references, there was a restraint in Wang's design and fabric use that had a slight nod to grunge. While the clothes were decidedly sombre, it had a very clear sense of structure and control in the tailoring and cut with an obvious Vera Wang aesthetic. And it made for a gorgeous collection no doubt.

MICHAEL KORS : If the American designer had a dull side, he never showed it. Not in his collections anyway. Spring to Kors was an avenue to be extra optimistic, and there was no short of that in his collection this season. Pieces for spring 2015 were extremely wearable, mostly '50s inspired cuts adorned with many a floral detail. Even the leather belts were shaped into flowers, paired up with baby blue striped blouses and lovely embellished skirts. Structured coats still had a soft silhouette to it, and many of the pieces were reworked wardrobe classics, working to the wearable advantage. Masculine tailoring paired with slightly retro and feminine accessories and prints have played a huge part in this collection, and is also partly why it is such a hit, it was a delightful hybrid of ladylike and effortless everyday wear. Look no further than Michael Kors this season for a wardrobe that would last you for Spring and beyond. 
RALPH LAUREN : While Ralph Lauren has a penchant for Hollywood glamour when designing his collections, he whisked his muse away to the sandy depths of Africa for Spring 2015. Taking two genres that are at the opposite ends of the style spectrum - rugged safari and luxurious glamour, he mixed them together and what a collection it was, surprising the audience from start to finish. At first it was khaki : khaki shirt dresses were draped across jodhpurs, khaki tailored pants and blouses, then it moved into something more elegant. The khaki was suddenly paired with bright pastels of lemon and pink to create breathtaking gowns, and to say that the contrast is delightful is an understatement. Glittering jewels were strewn across the models' necks and ears, and when worn against khaki and bright tulle froth-skirt gowns, instantaneously turned them into regal safari queens. And who wouldn't want to look like one of them for Spring?
DIANE VON FURSTENBERG : "The Côte d’Azur in the fifties—when it was glamorous!” Crop tops, short skirts, flowy fabrics and gingham : everything in Diane von Furstenberg's Spring collection screamed the French Riviera. Brigitte Bardot was the muse and Saint-Tropez was the place, as models {including supermodel iconoclast Naomi Campbell} strutted down the runway in nothing less than pieces as lighthearted and free spirited as a summer holiday by the beach.  Hair was tousled to perfection, while black eyeliner accentuated both the eyes a la Bardot and the delightfully monochrome collection. Gingham "picnic dresses", structured bralettes and skimpy wrap and shift chiffon dresses sent down were perfect for a hot sun-kissed summer day, and what better to pair them up than with stylish sandals complete with block tortoise-print heels. Pops of colour appeared in the form of Matisse-inspired patterns, revived in bright hues like Yves Klein blue and coral pink, Jet-setting fashionistas looking for a wardrobe update, this one is for you.
RODARTE : Kate and Laura Mulleavy must have known we were all secretly 100% mermaid all along. Since young, they've have been enchanted by the hypnotic beauty of the sea life in the the famed tide pools of Monterey where they grew up. For Spring 2015, they channelled those coastal memories into an unusual yet absolutely beautiful collection worthy of any mermaid princess : lushly layered and sequined clothes, inspired by seaweed and algae strips swirling in the deep blue sea. “We wanted to re-create the texture of those underwater tide pools,” Kate explained, “to explore this idea of underwater worlds, with all the movement and fluidity.” The starting point was the pools, creating a mish-mash iridiscent materials and textures of clothes to resemble glistening waves, embellishing them with personal touches like hand-painted tulle, embroidery, and netting. Gowns were dusted with shimmering sequins, flowed with films of rosette, and even featured fish scale embelishments and piercings.The colour palette of ice blue, algae green, white and navy were reminiscent of a tinted seashell and accessories shaped like sea anemones and urchins. Daywear included collared blouses matched with bodycon jeans and knit, hooded jackets with netted sleeves. The Rodarte sisters are always known for taking a magical idea and crafting it to perfection, and their latest collection would no doubt dress many a Hollywood star on the red carpet soon.
TOMMY HILFIGER : It was all about rock 'n' roll for Tommy Hilfiger's Spring collection. The show venue was made up like a music festival, lush carpet grass with gerbera daisies greeted show attendees, while two drummers were in the background sounding out vinyl records.  "I've had a dream of doing a full collection of rock-style clothing for a very long time now. People don't really know me now for my love of music—the Beatles, the Stones, Hendrix, the Who—so I thought I would celebrate my passion, my beginnings, my roots," said Hilfiger at a preview.The collection was chock-full of free-spirited hippy vibes with a bandana-wearing starry eyed festival girl as the muse. Kicking off the show in full-on rock style was Georgia May Jagger daughter of rock legend Mick Jagger, in a striped cape and matching shorts. This was followed by a bevy of star-tattooed models hitting the runway in a mix of sequined concert tees, surreal chiffon capelet gowns, patched denim and vintage faux furs. While the collection might remind some of Hedi Slimane, we all know Tommy was already at it way before Slimane, and with his American take to something quintessentially British, it was refreshing in the truest sense of the word.
VERSUS VERSACE : When you're an edgy Italian house like Versace whose aesthetic is all about sex appeal, glamour and flash {but definitely not trash}, there aren't many designers that fit the bill when it comes to a collaboration. Even less make the cut when it's Versus, the younger label of Versace targeted at the well-heeled younger crowd. And who better to design the  Versus revival collection than the master of all-out sex appeal, Anthony Vaccarello? Perfectng the art of creating a slit minidress over the seasons, he introduced signature Vaccarello elements while sifting through Versace's archives and incorporating everything that's the essence of the house, from gold accents to Medusa heads and Greek prints, into the collection. The results were beautiful, the pieces though simple stayed true to the devil-may-care Versace attitude. The clothes though mostly black, featured an array of silhouettes from bondage bodysuits paired with tailored pants, to fierce jumpsuits cinched with medusa head belts, and the quintessential Grecian motif was found on almost every dress. Who knew sexy could be so restrained, yet so classic?

Which collection do you love the most?

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